Seoul to Tokyo in 24 hours - more difficult than it seems

So I find myself in Seoul with about 24 hours left in my 11 day journey. Mind you, I have to get from Seoul to Tokyo (using public transportation) and to the aiport by the next morning to catch my flight. Easy right?

I'm up at 4:15am, shower, pack and check out of my room in Gangnam. Good start. If you have a chance to go to Seoul, you should definitely stay in Gangnam. Lots of bars, street food, and easy access to public transporation. There's a subway stop 2 blocks away, and I am in the station by 5:00am thinking I have plenty of time to make my 6:00am train to Pusan. 5:10, 5:15, 5:20 rolls around and there is still no train. Getting anxious, I run upstairs and hail down the first cab I can find. It's 5:30am now, and I try my best to explain to the driver that I need to get to the train station in 30 minutes. He understands my horrendous pronunciation and flies through the semi-deserted streets. We arrive at the train station, and after thanking the driver profusely I get on the train with a few minutes to get settled in.

The 3 hour train ride to Pusan passes quickly, and I race out of the train station to hail another cab that will take me to the marine terminal. I get to the marine terminal with 5 minutes to spare before they close the gates, and take the hydrofoil over to Hakata. Of course, I missed the ferry over to Korea on the first leg of the trip and had to wait 4 hours in the terminal for the next one. $@#*&%&^@@!!!! The hydrofoil takes me to Japan and I'm on time and 1/2 way to Tokyo! Unbelievable! Taking another cab from the terminal to the train station, I easily make it in time for the train to Shin-Osaka. You've got to love a place where the trains are on time. Always. I make the connection in Shin-Osaka and get off in Tokyo around 8:00pm. A short subway ride later I find myself at my hotel near Rappongi, which is a bar area near Tokyo Tower. I drop off my stuff, grab a Starbucks and find a 7-11 that takes foreign ATM cards. Sweet! Hopped up on caffeine and full of cash, I make my way up to Rappongi. It starts to rain lightly as I navigate the streets, which are full of large West African bouncers and traditionally dressed females asking if I'd like to have a drink in their establishment. I politely decline and find myself at the end of the Rappongi strip. Hungry, I find a noodle shop and enjoy a bowl while figuring out what to do.

Now, at this point, I probably should have turned around, walked straight to my hotel room and ensured that I would safely make my 7:00am shuttle to Tokyo-Narita airport. Of course, that didn't happen.

I find an upscale-looking bar (meaning wooden bar and seats) and make my way inside. I order a beer and hear a group in the corner speaking English. I approach and offer to buy the next round as I'm introduced to a lawyer from Chicago, an American who was married that day to a Japanese girl, and an American playing American football in Tokyo (who knew?). His cousin lives in DC - I tell him that I live there. Sweet. Next to them is a group of Abercrobie & Fitch employees and models, and me in my A&F track jacket strike up a conversation with them. Double sweet. A few rounds of beer and shots of vodka later, the lawyer and newlywed peel off and we are all on to the next bar. Now this next bar announces that models drink for free. Of course, how are they going to know if you are a model? I don't ask, nor do I pretend to be one. I grab a beer and watch some EPL on the corner TV while one of the A&F reps tries to get to know the American footballer on a personal level. Feeling a bit woozy from having more alcohol than water in my system, we all make our way to another model bar. Thankfully, this place serves redbull and vodka (the first redbull I've found in Japan), of which I am in serious need. I order a round and we all make our way to the dance floor. I look around back of the club and see a bunch of karoke rooms. The footballer tells me that the guys in the rooms are all formula one racers (and apparently as famous as pro athletes here). I go to the back and stare in - one guy and probably 8 or 9 females in each of them. Now that is the way to roll! Another round of drinks and I find myself on one of the couches talking with some females and the lights go on. What the? What time is it? I look at my watch, it's 5:30am. Damn, we shut down the club. Undeterred, but ravenous, we all hop in a cab and make our way to a Japanese version of an all-night diner.

So, I'm in the diner just about to order and the American asks me when my flight is. Ummm, I need to back at the hotel by 7:00am for the shuttle to the airport. "7:00am? You need to get out of here now!!!" Oh shoot. Apparently I am no where near my hotel. I say my goodbyes and stumble outside to find a cab and look at my watch. 6:20am. I search my pockets for yen and throw it at the driver while a Japanese tells the driver which hotel I'm at. Some time later (I had passed out in the back seat during the trip) I am awoken by the cabbie's poking and find myself at the hotel. Thanking him profusely, I race upstairs, take a quick shower, brush my teeth and put on the last pair of clean clothing I have. I repack my things, only to find that my presents AND clothing don't seem to all fit now. &#$%^**&!!! Not having the mental capacity to figure out the situation, I throw a pile of clothes in the corner and zip up my bags. Oh well. I exit the elevator and run outside to find the shuttle. We leave 60 seconds later. Success.

Epilogue

I will say that while I did make it to the airport on time, and was successful in boarding the correct flight, there was absolutely no reason why I should have been let on the plane. I was far too inebriated. After checking in and trodging through security, I found the nearest McDonald's and tore up some breakfast. Then, finding that I had an hour to kill, I made my way to the duty free shop and bought a bunch of sake and food that I had tremendous trouble fitting onto the plane. Some kind stewardesses were my saviors. I then curled up in my window seat, and full of diet coke, couldn't sleep a lick. The 12 flight back was hellacious as I watched every Harry Potter movie in the ANA movie list.

Upon arriving home, I entered my apartment to the smell of rotting garbage. I checked my garbage bin - empty, just as I left it. I checked my toilet - working. I checked my refrigerator. Bingo. Apparently sometime during the last 12 days the motor had broken. All of my food in the frig and freezer was a sloppy mess. Yuck. All I really wanted to do was to crawl into bed, but instead, I cleaned out the oozing, gooey filth, opened all the windows and had the frig replaced that night. I guess things all even out in the end, and I am certainly glad I made my flight home. lol

Cheaters - Seoul style

So many of you have heard/seen the show Cheaters, which films and documents the philandering ways of certain Dallas guys and their female companions. So I'm in a bar in Gangnam, after a unmercifully long journey from Nagasaki, which included a train from Nagasaki to Hakata, ferry to Pusan (after a 3 hour layover), another train to Seoul, then subway to my hotel. I order a beer and start watching the TV, which shows a fuzzy picture in a •REC box, and a young gentleman getting cozy with young lady at a local Seoul resaturant. Then the picture wipes to two hosts, a distraught looking female, and her mother, both obviously upset. Words are flying quickly, as the subtitles have train of thought descriptions (no doubt something to the effect of "Suspect seen leaving restaurant with unidentified female..."). The plot advances to "The Confrontation" The hosts, distraught girlfriend and irate mother drive up in a semi-trailer, which has the side fold down (like Knight Rider) and everyone piles out to the surprise of the boyfriend and his new ladyfriend. Crazy!

So the next 10 minutes is spent trying to explain to the barwoman that (1) We have a show like this in America (2) I love it and (3) What is it called? The woman finds the host and she tells me that it translates to "An immutable law of love". "The Conclusion" Though we don't speak the same language, the barwoman, host and I are all aghast that the gf takes the bf back in the end. Joey Greco can rest easy tonight - his franchise clearly cuts across cultural divides.

Nagasaki nights with Maranaka

So after an 8 hour train ride (that included two transfers - the last one I made by 120 seconds) I safely arrived in Nagasaki station. Mission one completed. Finding my hotel, however, was an entirely different story, which required taking the Number 4 street car to Shokakuji-Shita station, transfering to the Number 5 line toward Ishibashi and getting off at Ourakaigan-Dori. Talk about a mouthful. Of course, things didn't go entirely to plan. After navigating the crowded street car (with 2 bags and many more unhappy passengers) I got out at the correct transfer station Tsuki-Machi. So I'm standing on the side of the street waiting for the next car, when I realize that everyone on the car is looking at me, including the irate driver. Apparently I didn't pay the proper amount when I got on. So I walk up to the front, pay as fast as I can, leave and try to blend into the sidewalk. Thankfully I know little Japanese (and no swear words) because I'm sure there were a few choice ones thrown in my direction.

I arrive safely at Hotel Monterey Nagasaki, which is a unique blend of Dutch and Japanese architecture, drop off my bags and set out in search of a bite. I'm walking towards the city center when I stop in the first restaurant. Imagine walking into a place and having the music stop - that was about the reception I got. Leaving quickly, I see a cafe up the street and go to the door. I think it might have been a karoke place because the translated sign on the door said something to the effect of, Japanese speaking only. Detered, but still ravenous, I happen further up the street upon Maranaka and venture inside this tranditional sushi house. The head chef Mr. Maranaka welcomes me with English, a glorious assortment of sushi, and too much sake. An hour into the meal he suggests we venture downtown for some more festivities. I'm like why not? and on the way downtown, he tells me about his good friend who is the sushi chef at the Ritz-Carlton in DC (excellent!) We wind up going to three more local places I couldn't find again with a map and GPS, sampling more sake, which was extraordinarily delicious, and another sushi house where I sample the freshest most delicious mackrel, salmon, unagi, and shrimp I have ever had. I bid Mr. Maranaka good night and find my way back to the hotel. What a way to start my adventure in Nagasaki.

Shinkanzen to Nagasaki with hilarous consequences

So in my infinite wisdom of not really checking all the way through with travel plans, I found out that it is going to take 8 hours to get from Tokyo to Nagasaki. I didn't know for sure how long it would take, but I didn't think it would be THAT long. They don't call it the bullet train because it's slow right? Of course, I found out about the time when asking the JR representative, "I'd like a ticket to Nagasaki tomorrow." He sort of laughed, then said better make yourself comfortable on the train - you'll be arriving there at 7:00pm. I didn't ask about any time chance, though I don't think there is any.probably should have checked that out all. No matter, the real fun happens when, in one day mind you, I take the ferry from Pusan to Hakata, then the train all the way back to Tokyo. I'd give it a 50/50 chance that I make it on time. Hilarity will likely ensue.

Sumo and Gyoza

I'm walking down a side street in Ginza and happen to see the Fukuoka basho I tried to get tickets for later this week. So I stand at the entrance and watch long enough to have the barmen ask if I wanted to come in. I of course oblige and 5 minutes later I am doing shots of Jack Daniels with the two barman. One of the guys expels all the English he learned in school, then summons his coworker in an attmept to keep up the comversation. I buy them both another shot, and I regale them with stories about I too was a barman in Irleand. Well, not really. I (think) I was able to tell them that I too served drinks. No matter - I ask where the best local place to buy gyoza is and they write down directions to Tenryu. I thank them both profusely and head over. They were right - the gyoza here is the size of my arm and delicious.

Hurry up, in 5 minutes this place is becoming a Starbucks

So I'm addicted to Starbucks. I'll admit it - I need some caffeine in the morning and there are 3 Starbucks within 3 blocks of my office. So I lucked out with my hotel in that, much like my office, I also have 3 Starbucks within walking distance. Certainly makes up for the fact my room is smaller than a walk-in closet. No matter. So I get into Starbucks and am greeted with a warm smile, pictogram menu, and my caffe latte all within 90 seconds. I love my local Starbucks on Connecticut and L, but this is absolutley fabulous. And the venti size is just enough to get me through this time change.This jet lag is like a kick in the pants. Well, off to Tokyo Station to get my ticket to Nagasaki for tomorrow.

Why am I Mr. Sparkle?

So I take a bit of a nap here around 5pm, after walking around to the Emporer's Palace, Hibaya Park, and the Diet, and find myself at 1030pm. Shoot. So I get dressed and head out into Ginza to find a restaurant that is 3 levels below the street. I try to order udon noodles and some gyoza, but wind up with some sort of shrimp and rice dish. Perhaps I should have learned Japanese before I got here, eh? LOL So of course I eat the dish with a Kirin, and somehow, while I'm paying the check, I wind up having another beer with salmon. What the heck just happened? No matter, I thank the hosts, then wander over to an "American" looking bar with Jack Daniels and Budweiser in the windows. The place is deserted except for two Japanese business men, so I spend the next hour looking through my phrase book with the barman telling him I know less Japanese than he know English. I was even unsuccessful in getting him to take a shot with me. Kampai! So I'm at Yoshinoya in Ginza having some ramen before heading back to the room. I plan on getting to that huge fish market tomorrow morning - should be an adventure.